Kalymnos Climbing - Climb 5.12 on a Greek Island

The Island’s Top Five Crags for Aspiring 5.12 Rock Climbers to Visit

Dec 12, 2008

Want to climb 5.12? Consider planning a climbing trip to Kalymnos. The island's world-class crags offer the aspiring 5.12 rock climber a wide array of route options.

The climbing route selection in Kalymnos, Greece couldn’t be better for the aspiring 5.12 climber. A broad variety of climbs with different challenges and character await rock climbers at each of the island’s top five crags for 5.12s. Additional alternatives for those seeking the 5.12/7a+ grade are available at other crags on the island as well.

The Grand Grotta: Showpiece of Kalymnos Climbing

Probably the best-known feature of Kalymnos climbing, the Grand Grotta is an absolutely enormous cave filled with giant tufas and stalactites. These impressive and unusual features make it possible for climbers to ascend this severely overhung terrain with relative ease. Unfortunately, these features are also subject to breakage from climber traffic, especially in springtime when the rock is wet.

DNA (12a) might be the most-climbed route on Kalymnos. With no move harder than 5.10, this climb is truly a jug haul through and through. It also has kneebars, armbars, and other creative body-part-bars available at many points on the route. Its difficulty comes from the steep angle of the climb. Other good 5.12s in the Grotta include Ivi (12b) and Aegealis (12d).

Panorama: Offering Ample Opportunities to Climb 5.12 on this Climbing Vacation

Situated just to the right of the Grand Grotta when facing the cliffs, Panorama features an array of stellar 5.12 climbs. It also has great warm-ups. Panorama is not as steep as the Grotta. While it has some stalactites, it has lots of tufas that are fun to pinch and stem between. The routes tend to be somewhat pumpy. Recommended 5.12s include Aeolia (12a), Lulu in the Sky (12c), and Super Carpe Diem (12d).

Spartacus: Essential to Visit on a Kalymnos Climbing Trip

Spartacus lies up the hill to the left when facing the Grotta, about 10 or 20 minutes further to hike. While small compared to the Grotta, Spartacus packs a big punch for its quantity of quality climbs. These routes tend to have distinctive cruxes separated by good rests, with some pumpy climbing. Pockets and tufas are the norm here. Gladiator (12b), Spartacus (12c), and Spartacus Maximus (12d) are highly recommended.

Odyssey: Climbing in Kalymnos Isn't Complete Without It

Odyssey features some of Kalymnos’ finest climbing. Located in a different area entirely from the Grand Grotta, Odyssey’s climbing tends to be less featured with tufas and stalactites and more technical. Pockets and even some crimps are the norm here, along with the occasional section of tufas. Excellent 5.12s include Amphora (12b), Daphne (12b), Island in the Sun (12a), Alfredo Alfredo (12c), and Fourtouno (12c).

Iliada: A Small Kalymnos Climbing Gem

Around the bend and up the hill to the right (when facing Odyssey) lies the smaller crag of Iliada. Along with excellent warm-ups, Iliada has four stellar 5.12s: Polypitis (12a), Zorba le Gros (12b), Mythologie (12d), and Thetida (12d). The latter two of these require strong crimping ability, which is unusual for Kalymnos and might come as a welcome break for some.

Other Key Kalymnos Climbing Areas: Arhi, Kalydna, Sikati Cave...

By no means are the above-mentioned crags the only places to climb 5.12 on Kalymnos. They simply represent areas with a high concentration of quality routes of this grade. Other areas with fine routes abound, including Arhi, Kalydna, and the Sikati Cave. In fact, no climber should leave Kalymnos without visiting the Sikati Cave, a wild sunken hole in the ground with enormously long routes ascending the walls.

For More Information on Kalymnos Climbing

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