A Rock-climbing Quick Trip to New Zealand
Easy Accessed Rock-climbing Areas for the Flying Visit
Feb 13, 2009
New Zealand has earned itself a reputation as having some of the most beautiful climbing locations in the world. And being a small country, it is easy for a climber to fly in, grab a hire car, and be out rock-climbing within a matter of hours.
For anyone visiting the likelihood is they will fly into the country via Auckland (for the North Island) or Christchurch (for the South Island).
Here is a short, by no means comprehensive, list of quality rock climbing destinations for the visiting climber,all within easy reach of the main ports of call.
Flying into Auckland ?
- Right near the city centre is Mt Eden Quarry, which offers a good a range of technical climbing on columnar basalt. There are a few bolted routes, but the majority can be protected naturally or top-roped using the bolted anchors provided.
- Guide Book: Rick McGregor, Quarry Climbs. (NZAC, 1996).
- Next head for Wharepapa, a pocketed ignimbrite crag two hours drive south of the city. Wharepapa has over 800 sport routes in a quiet, typically rural New Zealand setting.
- Guide Book: Pete Manning, Central North Island Rock. (NZAC,1992).
- An hour south again, and considered the "mecca" of North Island rock climbing is Whanganui Bay, on the western shores of Lake Taupo. "The Bay’" has approximately 200 routes on volcanic rock, utilising both bolts and traditional equipment, and the setting is stunning!
- Guide Book: Len Gilman, Whanganui Rock. (NZAC, 1993).
Flying into Christchurch?
- The Port Hills are a "must" for any climber coming to Christchurch, as it's New Zealand's oldest and most busy climbing region. The Hills host a number of volcanic crags, all within walking distance from the road with around 1000 sport and traditional routes.
- Guide Book: Lindsay Main, Port Hills Climbing. (NZAC, 1998).
- To the east of the Port Hills lies Banks Peninsula, sporting numerous crags. For the most part these are volcanic plugs atop the hills of the Peninsula and they give terrific views out over the Pacific Ocean to the south and the Southern Alps to the west. The most remote of these crags will take up to two hours to drive too. Expect an adventure!
- Guide Book: Ivan Vostinar, South Island Rock. (NZAC, 2003).
- The other primary area accessed via Christchurch is the Castle Hill basin. This is a limestone bouldering area, about an hours drive west of the city. It sports around 250 climbs and well over 1000 boulder problems.
- Guide Book: Alan Davison & Matt Pierson, The Comprehensive Castle Hill Climbing Guide. (NZAC, 2008).
Guide Books
The guide books mentioned should have all the information necessary for these areas.They are available from any of the numerous outdoor shops in Auckland or Christchurch, for instance Bivouac Outdoor, or can be purchased online from the New Zealand Alpine Club.
Other guide books that may be useful/ of interest to the visiting climber are:
- Tim Wethey and Peter Taw,Canterbury Rock. (NZAC, 1992).
- Kate Sinclair and Ivan Vostinar, Rock Deluxe: A Guide to the Best Crags and Boulders in the South Island. (NZAC, 2004).
Grading System
New Zealand has adopted the Australian "Ewbank" grading system. With this numerical system the grade increases with a corresponding increase in climbing difficulty. A comparative example would be: Ewbank, 18; US, 5.9; UK, 5a; French, 6a+.
This is just a taster of the rock climbing in New Zealand. These are the areas within easy reach of the main ports of call. Unlike some of the more famed international rock-climbing destinations, a visitor can arrive in this South Pacific paradise, grab a hire car (or a local), and while warding off the effects of jet lag, be climbing the same afternoon!
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