Rock Climbing Skills - Improve On-Sight Climbing
Rock Climbers Can Learn to On-Sight or Flash Sport Climbing Routes
May 14, 2009
Every sport climber knows that climbing a route on sight demands a different set of rock climbing skills than redpointing. Here, learn the difference between a climbing on-sight and a climbing flash, and how to use flashing to improve climbing on-sight. Then, learn how to choose an appropriate sport route to attempt, along with rock climbing techniques that can bolster success.
The Basics: Climbing On-Sight vs. Climbing Flash
Climbing on-sight means that a climber successfully completes a climbing route on his or her first attempt, (a) without hanging (“taking”) or falling, and (b) without any prior knowledge of the route. A climbing flash occurs when a climber successfully completes a climbing route on his or her first attempt, but does so with prior knowledge (“beta”) about the route, such as specific climbing moves or holds on the route.
Using the Climbing Flash to Improve at Climbing On-Sight
The climbing flash can serve as a stepping stone to improve on-sight climbing ability. If a climber wants to break into a new on-sight grade, such as from 5.10d to 5.11a, it’s helpful to first flash some 11a’s. Gathering as much previous information about a route as possible, or even having a stronger climber supply running beta, can help build a climber’s confidence in his or her ability to climb a harder grade first try.
Choosing an Appropriate Sport Route
When looking to improve climbing on-sight ability, it’s wise for the climber to start by choosing a route that suits his or her particular climbing style. Whether a climber excels at steep, juggy overhangs or thin, technical face climbs, it’s always easiest to break new ground on comfortable terrain, and then move into the less comfortable areas once confidence and ability have been established.
Before Climbing, Read the Sport Route from the Ground
After selecting an appropriate sport route, study it from the ground. Don’t rush. Look at it from every angle, scope out the clips, and try to read sequences. Where does the route look hard? Where are the rests? Are there any holds that might become hard to see when climbing? Try to gather all the information possible from the ground, before starting to climb. Check the knot, harnesses, and belay for safety.
On the Sport Route – Smart Climbing Techniques
Begin breathing consciously before stepping off the ground. Climb placing each foot and hand deliberately, moving quickly and efficiently through taxing sections to rests. Feed the mind with positive self-talk (“I am strong. I climb 5.11a”) while resting and scoping out the next sequence. Don’t give up when it feels hard; keep climbing until reaching the top or falling (as long as the fall is safe). Remember to keep breathing.
When the Sport Climber Falls on the On-Sight Attempt
After a fall, try to figure out what caused it (mental, physical, both), and if it was actually possible to climb this route first try. If not, let it go (or turn the route into a redpoint project if it’s an enjoyable challenge). If so, try to analyze and learn from the experience so falling won’t happen the next time a similar situation presents itself.
Improving at Climbing On-Sight
Climbing flashes can be used to help a sport climber gain the confidence to improve his or her on-sight climbing ability. Choosing a sport route that suits the climber’s style can increase the odds of success, as can reading the route from the ground and maintaining solid climbing technique while climbing. Falls should be used as learning tools to fuel future climbing on-sight successes.
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