Rock Climbing Training – The Climbing Project
Learn How to Choose, Work, and Succeed on a Sport Climbing Redpoint
Jun 7, 2009
While climbing a route on the first attempt (an “on-sight”) is a fantastic accomplishment, most sport climbers can climb even harder grades if they choose to “project” a sport climbing route. The climbing project usually involves a climbing route that is far too difficult for the rock climber to ascend cleanly (without falling) on sight. With work and proper training for climbing, however, the climbing project eventually can become a successful climbing redpoint.
What is a Climbing Redpoint, Exactly?
Simply put, a climbing redpoint is a rock climber’s clean (fall-less) ascent, on lead, of a rock climbing route after multiple attempts. The climbing route can take anywhere from two to 200 (or more) attempts. After the first (failed) on-sight or flash attempt, any subsequent fall-less completion (or “send”) of the route is a redpoint, no matter how many tries it takes.
How to Choose an Appropriate Climbing Redpoint Project
As a general rule, a sport climber can send a sport climbing route of a grade a full number grade harder than his or her hardest on-sight. This means that a person who’s onsighted 11a should theoretically be able to redpoint 12a. However, the veracity of this generality will vary according to the style of redpoint project chosen and the climber’s strengths and weaknesses, among other factors.
In choosing a climbing redpoint project, it’s important to select a climbing route that is challenging but not totally inconceivable (e.g., trying to redpoint 14a if the climber’s hardest onsight is 10c). Also take into consideration the amount of time and effort available to put into the climbing project, and try to select a climbing route that fits into those parameters as a realistic goal.
Working on the Climbing Project: At the Crag
Begin by carefully and methodically checking out all of the moves on the climbing project (climbing it bolt to bolt, or on top rope). Focus first on breaking down the route into its components, figuring out which sections are most difficult. Work hard at sorting out the best possible beta for each movement, drawing upon feedback from other climbers and the belayer, if possible.
Once all of the moves on the climbing project have been generally figured out, begin trying to put together sections of the project on lead, working the climbing route down to three falls, then two falls, then one fall. If one or more moves consistently result in failure, be sure to revisit them often, making every effort to work out better, more efficient beta. Remember always to breathe!
View every day on the climbing project as a day in the classroom, and keep an open mind toward this great learning experience. Don’t get frustrated or come to the crag with expectations. The point of the climbing project is to push the climber beyond his or her normal realm of possibility, so a quick climbing redpoint yields less of a learning experience than a lengthier, more challenging climbing project.
Working on the Climbing Project: At the Gym
If the climbing project is proving to exploit a particular climbing weakness, use that information in the climbing gym. Train there for climbing the climbing project by creating movements that simulate the climbing project’s movements. Also, use this rock climbing training time to build the needed power, strength, and/or endurance as necessary to help promote success on the climbing redpoint project.
Working on the Climbing Project: At Home
When not training for climbing at the rock climbing gym or attempting to work the redpoint project outside, be sure to spend some time at home visualizing the project. Also, it’s important to get enough rest and recovery between climbing training sessions and climbing days, and to eat well (especially enough protein) for optimal recovery. Finally, maintain a positive outlook toward the redpoint project at all times, no matter how long it takes to send.
Succeeding at Sending the Sport Climbing Redpoint
Be sure to choose an appropriate redpoint project, and then enjoy the learning and growing process it offers. Learn how to apply the mind and body to sorting out the beta on a difficult climbing route, and be willing to make changes to that beta as progress is made on the route. Spend time working on the climbing project both in the climbing gym and at home to optimize chances of success.
With enough practice on the climbing project both at the crags and at the climbing gym, as well as mental practice at home, the climbing project will ultimately become a climbing redpoint. Success is usually sweet and short lived, but the benefits of a difficult climbing redpoint will carry over into future climbing endeavors. By pushing his or her climbing difficulty limits, the climber comes away stronger and more well-versed in higher-level rock climbing techniques.
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