Training for Climbing - Build Climbing Endurance
Employ Rock Climbing Training Exercises to Increase Athletic Stamina
Jun 15, 2009
In addition to ample muscle power and great climbing technique, developing climbing endurance is a key component to improved rock climbing ability. In order to maximize rock climbing training time, first, find a climbing partner who wants to train climbing endurance, too. Then, use one or both of the climbing training exercises detailed below to improve climbing endurance. Finally, add in a cardio training element to increase overall athletic stamina.
Recruit a Climbing Training Partner
Because the climbing exercises described below are most effectively used with a committed climbing partner, it’s a good idea to find another rock climber who wants to train climbing endurance and improve at endurance climbing. Talk to regular climbing partners to see if someone else is interested, or ask the staff at the climbing gym if they know of another rock climber who might be stoked to train climbing endurance.
Climbing Training Exercise #1, Endurance Laps
For this climbing training exercise, select a well-known climbing route that might serve as a good second or third warm-up. It should be about a 6 or 7 in difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10. Toward the end of an evening of rock climbing (or a day outside), get on this route and climb it two or three times in a row, without resting or shaking out while climbing.
Try to climb as fluidly and technically correct as possible, even when arms get pumped. Rest only when being lowered to the ground, and immediately get back on the route. The climbing partner should encourage, as well as give feedback if and when climbing technique deteriorates. The goal is no more than three laps without falling — otherwise, the route is too easy.
This exercise trains the rock climber to climb with good climbing technique even when pumped, while at the same time, building up climbing endurance by pushing a climber to their maximal limit. Try to notice how climbing technique changes as fatigue builds, and really work to maintain good climbing form no matter what.
Climbing Training Exercise #2, Up and Down Climbing
For this climbing training exercise, select a well-known climbing route that might serve as a good first warm-up. It should be about a 3 to 5 in difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10. Toward the end of an evening of rock climbing (or a day outside), get on this route to up-and-down climb it, without shaking out, as many times as possible until failure. Just like in the first exercise, focus on maintaining climbing technique while pumped.
This exercise can be done in conjunction with the above exercise, after belaying the climbing partner through climbing training exercise #1. This way, both climbing partners have the opportunity to use the climbing training exercises, and to take advantage of the resting and recovery time while belaying the other climbing partner.
This climbing training exercise can yield great benefits during future onsight climbing attempts, as it helps teach the rock climber how to down climb sections of a route. Sometimes, being able to down climb a sequence back to a rest or to get the proper hand order can help a rock climber regroup and actually recover enough to onsight a climbing route.
Increase Athletic Stamina Overall, Cardio Training
Try to incorporate at least one or two days per week of cardio training into a climbing training regimen for overall fitness. This does not mean that the rock climber needs to run six miles every day. On the contrary, it’s important to have enough complete (meaning zero activity) rest days for top climbing performance. Just add in one or two days per week of 30- to 60-minute light cardio training for general fitness.
Use Endurance Climbing Training Exercises to Improve at Climbing
By using the above rock climbing training exercises regularly, climbing partners will find that they can easily improve their endurance climbing ability. Finding a willing climbing partner who wants to engage in this type of training for climbing endurance is a key to succeeding. Do the climbing exercises regularly — at least once a week — as well as adding in some cardio training to improve athletic performance on the rocks.
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