Wanaka, New Zealand Rock-Climbing At It's Best
A Guide to a Top Rock-Climbing Destination in the South Pacific.
Jan 26, 2009
Wanaka is a small mountain resort in the heart of Central Otago, New Zealand. Although Wanaka is primarily known for it's snow sports, it has developed a reputation for being one to the top rock climbing destinations in the country. Dotted about the countryside surrounding the town are a myriad of schist crags with sport climbs ranging from grade 10 to grade 30 (Ewbanks Grading System). The majority of these can be found scattered along the Matukituki Valley, from Glendhu Bay to the road end at Raspberry Flat. Most crags can be climbed on summer or winter - a nice alternative if the visitor want a day away from the ski field.
Equipment
Generally a dozen quickdraws and a 50m rope will suffice for this area, although some of the more recent multi-pitch climbs at the head of the valley may require 15 quickdraws and double ropes.
Guide Book to Wanaka Rock Climbing
There is one guide book to Wanaka and this can be bought at the outdoor stores in the town.
Jerry Murray-Orr, Wanaka Rock. (Wanaka Rock Club Inc, 2005).
The Wanaka Crags
- The Little Big Wall
- A quality crag with a big feel! Gets the sun all day.
- Highlights are: Turn On Tune In Drop Out (15, 16, 14); Ultrasound (26); Rogue Erratic (20, 25).
- Hospital Flat
- This area consists of a number of crags and is the main 'beginner' and instruction destination for climbers. It can also be very hot in midsummer.
- Highlighs include: The Big Corner (14: on the Main Cliff); The Crack (17: on the Tombstone); Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun (17: on the Tomb Stone); Doing the World a Favour (22: on Warm Leatherette Buttress);Pocket Edition (23:on The Hangover); Critics Choice (20: at The Crackhouse); Mental as Anything (25: At Sunnyside); No Sweat (27; At Sunnyside) ;Falcon Steep (23: at The Cutting).
- Rocky Hill area:
- Again, this consists of a number of crags set in a stunning setting above Diamond Lake. It's in the shade so a great place on a hot day, but too cold if it's not.
- Highlights include: My Little One (24: on the Pencil Dick Wall); Take No Prisoners (22: on the Pencil Dick Wall); Naked on the Neve (20, 19: at The Diamond); Need to Unwind (23: at Sharon Stone); Humble (30:at Trackside).
- Motatapu River
- Three crags look over the Motatapu River and provide stunning climbing and ready access for swimming if it gets too hot.
- Highlights include: Antiwalk Device (23: at Riverside); Lollapolooza (26: at Riverside); The Engorger (24: at Riverside); Who the **** is Nick Craddock (23: at the Garden Bar); River Rat (26: at Toad Hall); Recidivism (27: at Toad Hall).
- Roadside Attraction
- Very close to the Motatapu River, this was one of the earliest crags to be developed. Very close to the road, it's a great place to go winter or summer.
- The highlights are: Aretnaphobia (20); Up Your Scud (23); Free Barry (23); Shortcut to Exposure (17); Neil Diamond Loves Me (23); Ring the Gack (25).
- The Alcove
- This pleasant crag is just across the paddock and is nice and shady on a hot afternoon.
- Highlighs here are: Where's Doctor Holdfinder (23); Roche Muttonne (23); Bob the Builder (25); Ferocious Weazil (22).
- Hellsgate
- Dont go there unless you are ready for an adventure! There is only one route on this huge mountain wall; nine pitch Taniwha (24, 220m). Be sure to take with you 18 quickdraws and two 50m ropes. Wear a helmet and take food and water as you will be on the route all day. The crux, at grade 24/25, is pitch 5.
This is really just a taster of what Wanaka has to offer.
There are many more crags, both obscure and not so obscure, catering for beginners and experts alike. And with such variety of aspect it is possible to find somewhere to climb in Wanaka in winter or summer.
